Our final New York dispatch comes from DBGB Kitchen & Bar where we celebrated arguably our best meal of the holidays. All the dishes we sampled were delicious – with a few particular standouts – and the entire meal was artfully paired with beers selected by sommelier Kerry O’Brien (these will get a post of their own down the road).
Chef Olivier Quignon pulls together a range of hearty dishes from the cuisine of Daniel Boulud’s birthplace, Lyon, as well as from the casual fare of Chef Boulud’s adopted homeland, America. What you end up with is a meat-laden menu featuring house-made charcuterie and creative burgers arrayed around a centerpiece selection of fourteen types of sausage. The only thing holding us back from trying them all was our party size but we did manage to sample seven, each paired with creative takes on classic accompaniments and highlighting flavors from diverse parts of the globe and
In a meal full of great dishes, the ones generally agreed to be most outstanding were: the Bone Marrow, with luscious fat to spread over rye toast and an beautiful presentation; Thai sausage, where rich pork was enlivened by fresh flavors and served alongside absurdly good basil fried rice; and the paté which, while fairly traditional in its preparation, was so incredibly well made that it was simply blissful.
The restaurant itself is something to behold, with its low-key, back-of-house décor that has the walls covered with actual dry good storage and used pans donated by various luminaries of the culinary world. The vibe was raucous, as was intended, and even on a weeknight the energy infused the meal with an edge befitting the restaurant’s location in the Bowery (though there seemed to be some vagueness on the point, we were told that DBGB may stand for Daniel Boulud Goes to the Bowery).
Start-to-finish, it was a phenomenal meal featuring by a wealth of ingredients expertly handled by exceptional chefs and enhanced by great beer.
country style paté with pork & chicken liver
BEEF BONE MARROW
Katz’s pastrami, watercress, pickled mustard seed rye bread toast
PIED DE COCHON PANÉ
crispy pigs feet, romaine heart salad sauce dijonnaise
braised shortribs, vermont cheddar
BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP
spaghetti squash, pumpernickel croutons, caraway cream pumpkin seed
duck & pork sausage, kasha varnishkes, duck cracklins
pork, mushrooms, onion, bacon & red wine link with lentils du puy
pork banger with sage & white pepper yorkshire pudding, english peas a la francaise
korean-style pork sausage with cucumber-bok choy pickle spicy kim chee coulis, shrimp chips
spicy blood and pigs head sausage scallion mashed potatoes
lamb & mint merguez with harissa lemon braised, spinach & chickpeas
pork, lemongrass and red curry links, green papaya, basil fried rice, chili sauce, quail egg
MEYER LEMON CHEESECAKE
pistachio crust, ricotta cream, meyer lemon sorbet
WARM STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING
citrus poached pineapple, calamansi sorbet
brownies, meringue, cacao streusel chocolate fudge & whipped cream